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Food and Drink Writing from Rochester, NY
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Wednesday, October 15, 2003
"Here's Some Hake...
...now get in the kitchen and make some dinner out of it." That's how I
was greeted getting home from work yesterday. Well, it was not presented
quite so brusquely, but my mission was clear. Having a recipe in mind and
then shopping for the ingredients is really a completely different cooking
experience for me from being presented a bunch of stuff, Iron Chef style and
told to go at it. The former generally leads to a better final result, but
the latter is a great way to exercise a little bit of improvisational creativity
and really think a bit about how flavours and textures are going to combine.
It's a challenge. Especially when you're starting with problems like, "What's
Hake". Here's what I came up with:
Steamed Asian Spiced Hake Over a Bed of Spicy Sauteed Swiss Chard with a
Ginger Orange Sauce
I bashed up a paste of cumin, coriander, basil, thai chili, fish sauce, and
orange zest in the mortar and pestle to make a paste, which I rubbed on one side
of the fish. I topped this with some sliced shallots and steamed the fish
for about 12 minutes (until it was easilly flaking).
For the sauce I sauteed some ginger, garlic, and shallots for a couple
minutes and then squeezed in the juice of an orange and some chicken stock.
Reduced, strained, seasoned, thickened with some corn starch slurry.
For the greens, I sauteed a chopped dried thai chili and some garlic briefly
in a couple tablespoons of oil, and then added a big bunch of roughly chopped
swiss chard and wilted it down.
Success.
I was really happy with the way the flavors in to paste penetrated into the
fish as it steamed. The sauce could have used a little more
robustness to stand up to everything else. I'm not sure how to get there.
Sauteed swiss chard is an old standby here. Goes well with almost
anything.
Monday, October 13, 2003
Brine and Basmati
Two yummy things are presented here as your hit of food porn for today.
One, a super-flavourful (overpowering?) center-cut pork chop that was my first
experiment with brining pork. Two, an awesome and easy curried basmati
rice recipe. Basmati rice has been filling up an awful lot of my craving
cycles lately, oddly enough. This preparation, which I've made a couple
times now definitely helps explain the cravings.
I've been a little apprehensive about the whole brining concept, especially
after the
salty shrimp fiasco. But the concept has seemed to keep coming up on
my radar lately, and it was in the back of my mind when I was shopping
yesterday. So, I bought a nice pork chop, brought it home, and threw
it in this brine
for 24 hours. The short story is that it was everything advertised,
juicier, more forgiving (I was not very meticulous with my grilling time and
temp), and tastier than a non-brined pork chop. What can I say, I'm a
convert. Unfortunately, it's so rare that I think 24 hours ahead in my
cooking that my conversion will usually take on the form of: "damn, I wish
I would have brined this".
The rice, now that takes very little forethought. Great for the craving
driven chef. The
basic recipe's
here. Perfume scented basmati rice, apricots and apples, sweet and
aromatic spices, ginger, and garlic. Nothing to take umbrage at there.
The major alteration I make on the listed recipe involves the curry powder.
As I've learned in the last year, using the jar labeled "curry powder" from the
spice section of the supermarket only leads to disappointment and despair.
For this recipe I've taken to toasting some cumin and coriander seeds and
grinding them up in my good buddy mortar and pestle. I add that to some
"curry powder" and chili powder from an Indian market. The quantities and
additional spices will vary depending on my mood.
Already craving tomorrow's leftovers...
Sunday, October 12, 2003
Back to Basics
Often, when working on these entries (ok, not so often lately) I end up
chastising myself for launching my unfounded, misinformed, and/or misguided
opinions on food and drink out into the ether when I've never even made a bloody
apple pie! Well, as of a couple hours ago, I'm proud to say I no longer
have that encumbrance. Making a good apple pie would have been
preferable. One battle at a time.
Here's the
recipe I basically followed.
What was good:
- Appearance - As always, the eye of the beholder comes into play with this
quality. This beholder likes it. I think brushing some milk on the
top before baking helped with the golden color.
- Crust - This is my most successful pie crust effort. The others
certainly haven't been bad, but this was just a bit flakier than any others
I've made. I think the difference was more technique than recipe.
I keep hearing that the more you work the crust the, less flaky and tougher it
gets. So I made a concerted effort to work this as little as possible.
Even the thick part along the edge easily cuts and flakes with light fork
edge. Great buttery flavor.
- Sugar Topping - A little sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on the top before
baking. I honestly have no idea why everyone doesn't do this with their
pies.
Not so good:
- Mushy filling - The recipe I was using called for the pie to be baked for
two hours. Seemed a little long to me. But who was I to judge.
In retrospect, two hours seems like almost enough time to make an applesauce
pie.
- Runny filling - I'm not sure exactly what the culprit is here. My
guess is a combination of cooking too long, not adding enough flour (or other
thickener) to the filling, and the pie still being warm.
- Filling flavor - I would have liked a little more cinnamon and nutmeg.
- Top Crust to Filling Gap - This one's a bit picky, but it detracts from
the final product in my opinion. A gap of about 3/4 inch between the
crisply top crust and the top of the filling. I think this is probably
just another side effect of cooking too long. Any suggestions?
One more thing. I saw this referenced a few times while looking up
recipes. Cheese served on top of your apple pie!???? Anyone?
Origins of this mysterious practice?
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