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Food and Drink Writing from Rochester, NY
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Saturday, July 19, 2003
Curried Potato Leek Soup
Today's lunch. Inspired by a great similar soup I had at
Jines last week and have been
craving ever since.
Soup seems to me one of the absolute easiest things to make. Sure, you
can take it to esoteric levels if you want to, but with the exception a few
complicated French classics, it takes almost no skill to pull off a delicious
product. Yet, getting crappy soup at restaurants is such a common
occurance that one begins to suspect some type of global conspiracy. A
rouge agency is sneaking around kitchens and pouring cups full of salt into
stockpots and pounds of cornstarch into every cream soup they can find. I
just don't understand where these people are getting the idea that their clam
chowder isn't thick enough until you could mold it into a scale replica of the
Matterhorn.
Oh well. This soup was decidedly not crappy. And it took about a
half hour start to finish (cleanup and all). I based it roughly on
this recipe,
supplementing the curry powder with some freshly toasted and ground cumin and
coriander seeds. And I used chicken stock instead of water.
Friday, July 18, 2003
Smoked Bratwurst
...with grilled zucchini, leftover potato salad, and chipotle tomato roasted
pepper sauce.
I'm constantly astounded by how little I know.
For example, what goes into a Bratwurst? Ok, granted, nobody knows what
really goes into the shrink wrapped, prettily packaged, bratwurst in the
supermarket, but I'm talking about the real deal like these that I bought at
Swan Market.
Normally, I'd just look it up, wax poetic about the sausage making process
here, and feign absolute authority on the subject, because it's my food
blog damnit! But it's introspective Friday, so I thought I'd graciously
share the fact that I know nothing about food. (oooh, an introspective
blogger. The novelty!)
So, ahem, I usually use this recipe when making my smoked bratwurst:
90 pounds pork trim (70 percent lean)
3 quarts water
3 cups salt
1 to 11/3 cups sugar
6 tablespoons cure
¾ cup white pepper
¼ cup cayenne
2 tablespoons nutmeg
2 tablespoons thyme
2 tablespoons ginger
1 tablespoon rosemary
1 tablespoon mace
Coarse-grind meat trimmings. Add water, salt, sugar,
cure and spices. Mix thoroughly. Regrind through ¼-inch diameter plate. Stuff
into pork casings. Smoke product to desired color and heat to an internal
temperature of 141 °F. Product must be cooked before serving.
This is actually a recipe from a very informative paper I found at
North Dakota
State University.
The best I can determine from other sources is that it's usually pork based
and sometimes includes veal. Ginger and nutmeg are common denominators as
far as the seasoning. And you can buy it uncooked, cooked, or smoked.
(this I actually knew from my trip to the butcher).
This sausage page
from the
The Food Lover's Companion
is a good overview and cross-references many
types of sausage.
Well, I'm really hungry again now, and I didn't even have time to tell you
how I made the chipotle tomato bell pepper sauce for the bratwurst. Ok,
but I'll make it quick. 1 chipotle pepper in adobo, a few tablespoons of
the adobo sauce, 1 plum tomato, half a roasted bell pepper, tarragon, salt,
pepper, 1/4 cup chopped red onion, Food processor, simmer, strain, boil,
arrowroot slurry, done. Not perfect, but worth tinkering with some more.
Iron Chef - Software Engineers Episode
People who have read this blog for the last half-year (I guess that would
include myself and my mom) know that about once a month a few people have a
little theme cook-off at my workplace. Well, it started off as a cook-off,
but any pretense of competition has waned in favor of it just being an excuse to
have an indulgent lunch. We've done French Onion soups, New England clam
chowders, pates, desserts, etc... Tomorrow is "Summer Salads".
The picture shows my contribution, a sweet and russet potato salad. I've
given up on trying to develop a "great" recipe for these things, and now just
make something that's likely to be significantly different from others.
The basis for this salad is
this recipe.
With the addition of the hot sauce marinated, grilled, red onions that I've been
so fond of lately.
The recipe includes a significant bit of crumbled bacon, which was actually a
bit of a disincentive. I've been trying to avoid cooking with bacon,
cream, sour cream, massive amounts of butter and the like lately. Not
because of the health factor at all, but because all that stuff has just started
to seem very cliche to me. They seem like cheating. They seem
boring. Well, tonight I'm here to say, bacon may cliche, it may in
fact be cheating, but even when exerting an effort to be at my most jaded I
could not say with a straight face that bacon is boring. Rest assured my
children, as much as we're all sick of Emeril, pork fat still rules.
Tuesday, July 15, 2003
The Immortal Sazarac Cocktail
"One of the World's Truly Great Mixtures; & All Bound Round with Lovely
Memories of New Orleans.
It is a sad and shocking fact that more people who should know more know less
about this truly remarkable drink than is reasonable--heaven alone knows why.
The Sazarac Bar-Chief, who has been building 'em for 40 years, showed us his
way. As did the mixers at several Clubs, the old St. Charles; to say
nothing about places like our friend Roy Aciatore's
Antoine's Restaurant,
Arnaud's, Gabriel
Galatoire's,
Broussard, and others. The best drinks
produced in New Orleans stick to the ancient, simple formula--and please,
please, never try to vary it; for if you do you'll not be drinking a true Sazerac--just some liquid abortion fit only to pour down drains.
First thing is to get a Sazarac glass; a great big thick-bottomed thing which
is nothing more nor less than an Old Fashioned glass blown up to twice normal
size! Reason: thick bottom and thick walls keep the strong mixed
liquor cold; and warm strong mixed liquor is like a chemical in the
nostrils and throat, of course. These big crystal affairs are buyable at
first-class glass stores; but may take time to order in. If none at hand
use your brandy sniffers as substitute. ... Routine is simple and inviolate:
Frappe (pre-chill) glass and liquor. For each drink pour 2 ounces of the
best rye whiskey you can find in a shaker, lash it with 3 or 4 good squirts of
Peychaud's bitters. Shake hard and long with big ice. Then strain
into your glass, which must be previously coated inside with 3 or 4 good squirts
(use a bar0man's quill top bottle stopper for this) of absinthe or 120-proof
Pernod; and turned or spun between the palms to make this said coating
even and thorough. Strain drink in glass, and twist a long curl of
thin-cut yellow lemon peel on top, for oil and aroma. Hold under nose,
inhale the fragrant blend of scents, sip and relax....This, then, my dear
children, is just how little Sazaracs are born! Mark well..."
exerpt from "The Gentleman's Companion: Volume II Exotic Drink
Book" by Charles H. Baker Jr. 1939
Tonight I did mark well, and produced one of these beauties for myself almost
exactly as directed (minus the fine crystal). The consumption of which
whisks me to a bygone era when the world was just as insane, but at least folks
like Mr. Baker existed. People who saw the cocktail craft as a science and
the consumption as an art. People who scroured the world pursuing the
height of imbibement. People who used very silly language.
The language in the remainder of this tome is just as remarkable and an utter
pleasure to read. You can probably find an early two volume set on
Ebay. For some equally poetic, but more modern language try Chuck
Taggart's excellent
Gumbo Pages
piece on the subject.
Now, my dear children, please, please, put down your bloody sour apple
martini and try a real cocktail.
Cheers.
Monday, July 14, 2003
What Can I Say...
Life is good.
I'm talkin' Ribeye Steak good.
I'm talkin' Roasted Rosemary Potatoes good.
I'm talkin' 80 degrees of floral scented al fresco good.
I'm talkin' running The Boilermaker
much faster than your goal and celebrating with your lover good.
I'm talkin' cats just can't resist good.

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