Chimay Braised Veal Shanks and Cat
This is the way meals around here usually go:
"Bravo, Marvelous effort darling."
"Many thanks my dear. I do say, the veal shanks are stunning."
"Do I detect a modicum of, perhaps, Belgian Ale, my sly little fox?"
"Oh...you clever minx! You never miss a minute beat. It is indeed.
Chimay Premiere, to be precise."
"Mrrrrrroooooowwwwww!!"
Mr. Friendly, the cat, tends to get a bit jealous of our meals. Which
in itself isn't much of a problem as she's not terribly vindictive.
Unfortunately she is a bit of a strong vocalizer and has a lot of difficulty
curbing her enthusiasm. I can't say I blame the poor thing. We
flaunt some terribly yummy things in front of her, and she has no shortage of
appetite. But the 19 pound beast is supposed to be on a diet for her
health, so alas, her relentless cries are in vain.
This tangent was basically prompted by the non-photogenic,
but terribly yummy, dish of
Zuni Cafe's
Chimay Braised Veal Shanks. The picture needed an additional point of
interest, and the cat was poised to volunteer. The recipe was originally
for short ribs, but Wegmans was fresh out,
so I tried it with veal shanks instead. The results were quite good,
although the flavor of the Belgian Ale wasn't as apparent as I had hoped.
I think the short ribs would also be a better result. The idea of broiling
the meat at the end spread with some Dijon mustard is a winner either way.
Here's the recipe as The Zuni Cafe Cookbook presents it. Judy Rodgers
recommends serving it with mashed potatoes or spatzle. We served it with
the mashed and some brussels sprouts.
About 2 1/2 lbs short ribs, cut across the bone into 2-inch-wide bands (have a
butcher do this)
Salt
1 to 2 tablespoons mild-tasting olive oil
1 1/2 lbs yellow onions (about 3 medium), sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 bay leaves
A few whole white peppercorns
A few slices dried wild mushrooms, rinsed in warm water and coarsely chopped
Up to 1 cup beef stock
Up to 1 cup Chimay ale or similar Belgian-style ale
About 1/4 cup Dijon mustard
Trimming and seasoning the short ribs
Trim most of the fat from the short ribs, but leave the silverskin and tough
sheathing around the bones intact. This will help keep the meat succulent
and will give body and character to the braise. Salt evenly all over (we
use a scant 3/4 teaspoon sea salt per pound of meat). Cover loosely and
refrigerate.
Cooking the short ribs:
Warm the oil in a 3-quart saute pan over medium heat. Wipe the pieces
of meat dry. Brown the short ribs evenly and gently on the three meaty
sides, about 4 minutes per side. Pour off excess fat.
Rearrange the meat bone side down in the pan. Add the onions, bay,
peppercorns, the optional mushrooms, and equal parts stock and ale to a depth of
about 3/4 inch. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook over low heat, until
fork-tender, about 2 to 2-1/4 hours. Check two or three times to make sure
that the liquid is barely simmering, and turn each piece of meat each time you
check. When the meat is done, uncover, prop the pan at a slight angle, and
leave to rest for about 5 minutes.
Turn on the broiler.
Skim the fat that has collected at the lower side of the pan, Taste the
juice and simmer as needed to concentrate the flavor. Salt as needed.
Make sure each piece of meat is bone side down, then bruch or smear the tops
with the mustard. Set the pan under the broiler, about 5 inches from the
element, to brown the mustard and glaze the surface of the onion stew, about 5
minutes.
Serve the short ribs very hot, mustard plaster up, with a spoonful of the
syrupy sauce and onions.