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Food and Drink Writing from Rochester, NY
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Friday, December 27, 2002
Large Quantities of Seafood at Mykonos

Ordering seafood at a restaurant shouldn't feel like stepping up the
blackjack table at the nearest reservation casino. It shouldn't, but here
in Rochester, it unfortunately does. So, as good as this seafood platter
or "psarkia" platter at Mykonos
(274 Goodman St N, Rochester, (585) 271-5510) sounded, we were very torn, especially the day after a
holiday. We decided to do the sensible thing and ask about the seafood.
The professional and competent, if not overly personable, waiter assured us
without hesitation that they get all of their seafood fresh every morning, so we
decided to go for it.
I won't attempt to write a full review of this place here as
Adam Wilcox over at City Newspaper has already
written a good review that, for the most part, I agree with. In fact,
his review inspired us to try this place that I had avoided for a couple years
because of a stupid bias against the space. He's also a much better writer
than I.
As for the seafood, we rejoiced at the fact that it did indeed taste as fresh
as advertised. That being said, we found the preparation of the various
offerings (kalamari fried and grilled, grilled salmon with capers, broiled
shrimp and scallops, charbroiled octopus tentacles) good, but a bit
underwhelming. The grilled kalamari stood out with a great smoky flavor.
The low end was the octopus. I've never had octopus before, but I'd like
to think it shouldn't have the texture of beef jerky, maybe I'm wrong.
I think I'm being fair in my assessment of the seafood, but it may be tainted
by the contrast with the appetizer we had just before the seafood. Adam
Wilcox says, "I'll take Mykonos's eggplant puree, melitzanosalata, over baba
ghanoush, but it isn't quite the rapturous experience of the same dish at
Olive's." I'm forced to disagree here as I also just had the counterpart
of Mykonos's melitzanosalata at Olive's last week. I was blown away by the
exploding flavors here and would have to give Mykonos the prize. I loved
this dish, and, despite the unexciting seafood, I loved this restaurant.
Thursday, December 26, 2002
The Pot Roast That Saved Christmas
There are a few thoughts that go through your mind when you embark on a
journey to spend Christmas with your family and end up having to have some kind
neighbors help push your car out of the snow not once, but twice, before
leaving the block. I won't repeat those thoughts here. But when a
good nor-easter exposes you for the snow-tire buying procrastinator that you
are, and you end up right back where you started hauling armfuls of presents
back into the house and explaining to your parents that, yes, the snow really is
deep here, one of the repeatable thoughts that enters your head is:
Comfort Food. And since making it to the grocery store was pretty much out
of the question, we had to work with what we could scrounge up. Thus, unto
you this day was born this pantry pot roast.
I'll just highlight the key points instead of listing a detailed recipe since
I will be more prepared next time I attempt a pot roast:
- Liquid consisted of various quantities of red wine, store bought beef
stock, porcini mushroom re-hydrating liquid, Worcester Sauce, and store bought
pasta sauce (Since this was the only tomato product in my pantry and I felt
that the tomato flavor was a must)
- Veggies included quartered onions, halved carrots, canned green beans,
porcini mushrooms, cannelloni beans, and a bit of barely salvageable celery.
Various fresh and dried herbs were added.
- Meat was half of a frozen beef roast of unknown origin from the freezer.
Probably about 1 1/2-2 lbs.
- Roast was pierced in several locations and stuffed with prosciutto and
halved garlic cloves
- Meat was seared with salt, pepper, and paprika. Dutch oven was
deglazed with wine, and then everything except the 2 beans was thrown in and
slowly simmered for 2 1/2 - 3 hours. Beans were thrown in for last 20
minutes. Meat and vegs were scooped out and sauce was thickened with a
little arrowroot and water. Meat was sliced and everything was
served over mashed yukon golds with butter, cream, and garlic.
Tasting notes:
- The sauce was awesome. The procini liquid added a subtle level of
earthiness and complexity.
- The carrots and cannelloni beans were great. The onions would have
been better if added later in the process.
- The meat was tasty (I think the prosciutto helped), but quite dry :(
I'm amassing a pretty poor braising track record. I don't know why it
ended up so dry. I was hoping for it to be falling apart. Please
leave braising tips in the comment section if you have any help.
- Of course, the potatoes were great, thanks Laura.
Tuesday, December 24, 2002
Mystery Beef Bourguignon
I've just experienced a validation of the raison d'être of this silly
website. I'm referring to the "not forgetting the recipes and experiences
of things I made" raison d'être, not the "showing off" raison d'être ;) I
was looking through some old directories of digital photos and stumbled upon
this Beef Bourguignon that I made and forgot to post to the website. I now
realize that I vaguely recall it tasting good, but have no idea where I found
the recipe, or what alterations and mistakes I made. I also realize that
"Bourguignon" is one of those words that's so hard for me to spell that I had to
try a few times before Google would even make a guess at what I was looking for.
Anyone else had that experience?
Anyway, I feel a little better about wasting so much time on this venture
now.
Peppadew - Something New
When is the last time you were able to try a new food that you didn't even
know existed before? I recently had this experience with some little red
pepper like things that appeared in the olive bar at
Wegmans. From what I can figure out,
they're called Peppadews, or rather, Peppadews(tm). They're sold by this
company from
South Africa, which touts them as:
"The first truly new fruit to be launched on the world market since Kiwi
Fruit 26 years ago, the story of the Peppadew™ Sweet Piquanté Pepper is as
intriguing and endearing as its taste...."
I don't know whether to believe this marketing or not, but I've certainly
never seen them before. I think they're basically pickled small sweet
peppers. Whether they invented them or not, the things are delicious, and
I can't go into Wegmans without picking up
a couple spoonfuls. If anyone else has had these or knows anything about
them besides what is one their web site,
please let me know. Also feel free to share any experiences you've had
with "new to you" foods.
Monday, December 23, 2002
Tasty Tart
hmmm... I bet that title will generate a few interesting hits from google.
But it would have been too wordy to describe it as a caramelized onion, goat
cheese, portabella mushroom, orange bell pepper, jalapeño, rosemary, balsamic
vinegar, and prosciutto tart. I've had some real failures in the past trying to blend so
many flavors, but this worked really well with nothing overpowering the other
ingredients. I wanted just a little bit of a bite to this and the jalapeño
really did the trick even though it may seem like it doesn't quite fit with the
other ingredients.
Tart Crust Dough
3 Tablespoons Olive Oil
1 Large Red Onion, sliced
1 Large Yellow Onion, sliced
6 Ounces Mild Goat Cheese
1 Large Portabella Mushroom Cap, cut in 1/2 inch slices
1/2 Sweet Bell Pepper, sliced
2 Tablespoons Jalapeño, minced
3-4 Tablespoons Fresh Rosemary, chopped
3 Tablespoons Balsamic Vinegar
1-2 Thin Slices of Prosciutto
Preheat oven to 375F
Roll out pastry dough and fit into tart pan. Run rolling pin over edges
to cut of excess. Poke holes in bottom with a fork. Cover with foil
and weigh with rice. Bake 20 minutes. Remove foil and bake for an
additional 5-8 minutes until brown. Remove from oven and pre-heat broiler.
While baking tart crust, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy skillet over
med-high heat and add onions. Add some salt and pepper let them cook for
about 25 minutes stirring frequently until caramelized.
When the onions are nearing completion, heat remaining oil in another skilled
over med-high heat and sauté mushrooms and peppers. When mushrooms are
just softened add some rosemary, jalapeño, salt, and pepper. Sauté for an
additional minute then deglaze the pan with the balsamic vinegar. Stir
well until mushrooms are coated with herbs and vinegar and take off the heat.
Place onions in the bottom of the tart crust. Top this with crumbled
goat cheese. Top this with the mushrooms and peppers. Tear
prosciutto into bite-sized pieces and put these on top. Cover edges of
crust with foil and put tart under broiler for about 5 minutes. Until the
prosciutto starts to crisp and the cheese bubbles a bit.
Sunday, December 22, 2002
Eye-Openers at The Frog Pond
There are two reasons Charlie's Frog Pond
(652 Park Ave, 271-1970)
tops my list of great breakfasts in Rochester, frittatas and mimosas. It also helps that they're about two
blocks away. For those of you who don't know, a mimosa is a cocktail of
Champagne (sparkling wine for the anal or French) and Orange Juice, and it's
difficult to think of a better way to start the day. In New Orleans, they
call these morning cocktails "eye-openers".
 
As far as the frittata, Charlie's version is an broiled
indulgent mass of egg, mild Italian sausage, onion, and pepper. The
presentation's not pretty, but it's impressive.
Laura had an omelet with lox, capers, and cream cheese. It
sounded really great, but unfortunately we thought they overdid the capers a bit
and they overshadowed everything else. They're not perfect, but the
breakfast menu has great variety that's hard to find at a diner. It
includes a few gems that I like even better than the frittata, like the
Charlie's french toast. The decor's funkadellic and the room is really
small and cramped, giving you that authentic NYC feel. With the Mimosas
our breakfast bill was about $25 pre-tip. A little more expensive than a
regular diner breakfast, but you can't tell me you're not a little bit jealous
:)
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